Here at Western Pet Supply, we believe that education is key to creating a healthy environment for your pet. We want all of the animals that leave our shop to live long, healthy, happy lives. We also want all pet parents to have the tools and resources they need to create a safe, species appropriate environment so their new pet (or pets!) will thrive.

Below is a basic care guide for bearded dragons. This guide will help you get started as a pet parent. If you have any other questions about your new pet, please feel free to call, email, or Facebook message us! We’re always happy to help!

Bearded dragons (Pogona vitticeps) are one of the most popular pet lizards. Native to the arid and semiarid regions of Australia, these terrestrial agamid lizards grow to about 24 inches (60 cm) in length as adults. In captivity they thrive in a dry, spacious terrarium with a temperature gradient and plenty of UVB light. This guide covers everything a new or intermediate owner needs to know to keep a bearded dragon healthy and happy.

Enclosure & Habitat

• Tank Size: Juveniles need at least a 76×30×30 cm (30″×12″×12″, ~20 gal) terrarium. However, due to their rapid growth we advise setting your dragon up in their adult sized enclosure right away. Adults require a much larger setup – a minimum of around 120×60×60 cm (48″×24″×24″). An enclosure of at least 5 or 6 feet in length is more appropriate.  For example, Western Pet Supply carries Atasuki knock-down terrariums up to 71″ long, which make excellent adult enclosures. A larger terrarium gives your dragon room to thermoregulate and exercise as it grows.
• Habitat Layout: Provide distinct hot and cool zones. Install a hide or retreat at each end: one under the basking lamp and one in the cooler area. Bearded dragons enjoy climbing and perching, so include sturdy branches or driftwood under the light. Also add at least one hiding spot (e.g. a rock cave or hollow log). For hides, options like the Exo Terra Reptile Cave (Medium or Large) work well. We also offer a variety of rocks, sticks and cork bark. In the wild these lizards shelter under rocks or vegetation, so providing a cave helps them feel secure.
• Substrate: Choose non-loose, easy-to-clean substrates. Many vets and experienced keepers advise avoiding sand, gravel, and small particles that can cause impaction if ingested. Safe options include flat ceramic tiles, or sand mixed with dirt for adults. Our recommendation is Zoo Med Reptisoil with a little more sand mixed in. Clean substrate regularly to prevent odors and parasites.
• A fully bio-active setup is also a great option for bearded dragons. Look for our guide on that coming soon.
• Temperature Gradient: Maintain a hot basking spot of about 38–40 °C (100–104 °F) for adults (up to 110 °F for young dragons), as measured on the basking area surface. The cool side should be about 26–30 °C (78–86 °F), and nighttime temps should not drop below ~22 °C (72 °F). Always use accurate thermometers: one near the basking area and one at the cool end. For example, the Exo Terra ComboMeter is a digital thermo-hygrometer that monitors both temperature and humidity. A point and click style infrared thermometer should be used to measure the temperature of the basking surface.
• Heating & Lighting: Bearded dragons need full-spectrum lighting and a heat source. Provide a UVB fluorescent tube or lamp (10–12% UVB output) for 10–12 hours per day. UVB enables vitamin D₃ synthesis and calcium absorption, preventing metabolic bone disease. Replace UVB bulbs every 6–12 months per manufacturer instructions. In addition, use a basking lamp (incandescent or ceramic heat emitter) pointed at the hot end. It is best to use a thermostat on your primary heat source, and use a metal dome to prevent burns. Do not use heat rocks – overhead heat is safest.
• Humidity: Bearded dragons require a low-humidity environment. Aim for about 30–40% humidity in the terrarium. A hygrometer can help you monitor this. High humidity can lead to respiratory problems. During shedding (especially in young dragons), you can raise the humidity to ~50–60% temporarily by misting or providing a warm bath. Bathing also helps with shedding and hydration (offer a shallow warm water dish daily; dragons will often soak and drink).
• Ventilation & Safety: Ensure good ventilation in the enclosure. Check that all decor is secure to avoid collapses (heavy branches above should be fixed, not resting on glass).

Diet & Feeding

Bearded dragons are omnivorous but juveniles eat mostly animal protein, while adults shift to more vegetables.

• Insects: Young dragons (up to 8–12 months) should be fed 2–3 times daily with dusted live insects (3–5 appropriately sized bugs per feeding). Crickets, superworms, and mealworms are all nutritious choices. For adults, insects become about 20–30% of the diet. Feed mature beardies insects only a few times per week to prevent obesity. Always gut-load feeder insects with high-quality food and dust them with a calcium/vitamin supplement at most feedings to ensure your dragon gets necessary nutrients. We recommend using calcium without D3 most feedings, and calcium with D3 once per week. Options are available here.
• Vegetables & Greens: High-quality greens should make up the bulk of an adult’s diet (~70–80%). Safe salad greens include collard greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens (grow your own!), turnip greens, and in moderation dark lettuces (romaine is a good treat; avoid spinach and high-oxalate veggies). Other veggies (squash, peppers, carrots, green beans) can be offered regularly. Provide chopped salad daily – about 1–2 tablespoons for juveniles and up to ¼ cup (per meal) for adults. You can mix in a small fruit treat (berries, apple, mango) occasionally. Not all foods are bearded dragon friendly and some should only be fed occasionally – be sure to research each option you are considering for your dragon.
• Commercial Diets & Supplements: You may use a commercial veggie-plus-insect powder as part of the diet (e.g. Repashy Superfoods Grub Pie, which is formulated for insectivores). This can supplement natural foods. We find these are best as a backup food source to keep on hand, but not as a staple diet. Always continue dusting calcium if using these diets. Provide a shallow water bowl daily for drinking and soaking.
• Feeding Tips: Always remove uneaten insects from the enclosure to avoid over eating, bites, and poor hygiene. Never feed insect prey that is wider than the space between the dragon’s eyes (to avoid choking).
  
  

Daily Care & Maintenance

• Light Cycle: Maintain a consistent day/night cycle (10–12 hours on, 12–14 hours off). Reset light cycles with timer.
• Cleaning: Spot-clean the enclosure daily. Remove feces and uneaten food promptly. Change the water bowl and wash feeding bowls every day. Do a full habitat cleaning (replace substrate or soak/clean décor) at least once a month (except for bio-active setups). Keep the cage dry and free of mold.
• Handling: Beardies are generally docile and enjoy interaction. Wash your hands before and after handling (they can carry Salmonella). Always support the dragon’s body – scooping from underneath the belly is best. Let your dragon climb onto your hand rather than grabbing from above. Introduce handling slowly with young dragons; they can be skittish at first. A content beardie may ‘tail whip’ or do small head bobs. A fully black beard is a stress signal.
• Socialization: Bearded dragons are solitary and territorial; never house two together (they will fight).

Health & Common Issues

Bearded dragons are hardy if properly cared for, but watch for these health concerns:

• Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD): The most serious issue, MBD is caused by calcium or vitamin D₃ deficiency (often from inadequate UVB). Symptoms include softening jaws, tremors, curved spine, or lethargy. Prevention is key: always provide strong UVB light and calcium supplementation.
• Impaction: Caused by ingesting substrate or large food. Symptoms: lack of appetite, lethargy, and not passing stool. Avoid loose sand/bedding. If impacted, seek vet care promptly.
• Dehydration: Signs include wrinkled skin and sunken eyes. Always provide fresh water, and offer a warm daily bath to hydrate and aid shedding.
• Parasites & Infection: Regular fecal checks by a reptile vet can catch internal parasites. Respiratory infections (wheezing, runny nose) can occur if temps are too low or humidity too high. Mouth rot (“infected stomatitis”) can cause white patches in the mouth. Any unusual symptoms or failure to thrive warrants a vet visit.
• Shedding Problems: Young dragons shed frequently; retained shed around toes or tail tips can occur. Soaking in a warm (not hot) bath and gently rubbing damp paper towel can help remove stuck skin.

Growth & Aging

• Growth Stages: Hatchlings grow rapidly in the first year. Juveniles require higher protein (more insects) and higher basking temps (up to 110 °F). As they mature (around 1 year), slow their growth by reducing insect feedings. Adults typically have a more vegetable-heavy diet (greens daily, insects 2–3×/week).
• Adult Size: Most central beardies reach 18–24 inches (45–60 cm) by 1–2 years old. Males tend to be larger than females. Their metabolism slows with age, so feed adults moderately to avoid obesity.
• Long-Term Care: With good husbandry, bearded dragons live 10–15 years. Elder beardies may become less active and eat less – keep warm and continue offering fresh foods.

By providing a warm, well-lit habitat with a balanced diet and routine care, your bearded dragon will thrive for many years. The products at Western Pet Supply can help: for example, we offer terrariums sized for adult dragons, heat and UVB lamps, substrates, hides and décor, etc. Always prioritize evidence-based reptile care: follow temperature and lighting guidelines, feed appropriate foods, and monitor your pet’s health.

Key Takeaways:

• Maintain a 40°C basking spot (100–110°F for juveniles) and cool side ~26–30°C.
• Use a UVB lamp (10–12%) on for 10–12 hours daily.
• Feed insects frequently when young, but leafy greens daily throughout life.
• Avoid loose substrate to prevent impaction.
• Watch for metabolic bone disease (ensure calcium and UVB).
• Bearded dragons are solitary; give each lizard its own tank.
• Monitor humidity (~30–40%) and increase it when shedding.
• Handle gently; support their whole body and do not chase or poke.
• A properly cared-for beardie is a long-lived, curious pet. Enjoy watching them explore, bask, and develop personality over the years!

This guide was prepared using a mix of exotic vet, herpetology expert, common hobbyist knowledge, and the experience of the Western Pet Supply team. Remember that no care guide, even ours, should ever be considered all-knowing. Be sure to seek alternative sources to expand your knowledge and provide the best care possible for your pet.